Arise

Structure shifts with the body in continuous motion.

2023

Arise explores garments as a system responding to movement. The work investigates how structure adapts to continuous multi-axis motion, maintaining form as the body moves.

This project was designed with zero gravity in mind, anticipating how garments might behave beyond terrestrial conditions.

This project demonstrates that garments can support movement without restricting it.

The garments are built on kite-frame logic: lightweight armatures that distribute tension across the body, allowing panels to shift in response to motion. Variable-opacity fabrics layer over one another. Embellishments are mounted to activate, not to sit still.

The system is tested against continuous motion.

The garment keeps pace with the body as volume migrates and layers shift between reveal and conceal. The silhouette is never the same twice, but it never falls apart. The system holds even when the body forgets the garment is there.

Out of the Present (Andrei Ujică, 1995). The vision for Arise begins with the ephemeral beauty of Helen Sharman's pink ruffled jumpsuit worn aboard Mir space station.

Parachute canopy reference Zero-gravity EVA reference Kite folding reference
Kite spine construction diagram Kite folding technique Kite spine detail sketch

In addition to texts on aerial devices, interviews with aerospace engineers and space-fashion pioneers informed the research.

Research interview Research interview
Research interview Research interview

Designing a second skin to support the body in zero gravity. Adaptive patternmaking was studied to adjust for the postural and fluid changes the body undergoes in weightlessness.

Ergonomics, body volume redistribution in microgravity Neutral body posture, joint angles in microgravity
Ergonomics research, body movement study Ergonomics research, movement analysis Ergonomics research, body mechanics
Parametric coding, ruffle pattern output Parametric coding, expanding ruffle simulation

Endless combinations of panels were generated to create ribbons engineered to enhance motion.

Look development sketches on kraft paper Look development sketchbook Parametric design process
Fabric petal sorting Blossom detail
Design development detail Design development process Materials development
Development detail Material exploration
Design development detail Design development detail
Design development detail Design development detail
Construction detail Construction detail Construction detail
Construction detail Construction detail

Trampolines were used to test garment kinetics. Captured in slow motion for accurate zero-gravity visualization.

Shoot image Shoot image
Shoot image Trampoline shoot, mid-air
Thesis presentation
Thesis presentation Thesis presentation

Presenting the work in front of esteemed industry and academic leaders including Jackson Wiederhoeft and Valerie Steele.

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NYFW September 2023

Credits

DesignDeborah Won
Presented atNYFW September 2023
ResearchBarbara Brownie, Spacewear: Weightlessness and the Final Frontier
Benjamin Scully, Former Director, Nike
Christophe Guberan, Industrial Designer, MIT Self-Assembly Lab
Daniel Wurtzel, Kinetic Air Sculpture
Helen Sharman, Seize the Moment
Nick Cienski, Original Designer, Under Armour × Virgin Galactic Spacesuit
Nikolay Moiseev, Spacesuit Designer, Paragon Space Development Corporation
Ted Southern, President & CEO, Paragon Space Development Corporation
Year2023
PressVogue
i-D
1 Granary
CFDA
Marie Claire
FashionUnited
EditorialsThe Sunday Times Style
InStyle
Harper's Bazaar Vietnam
MOB Journal
Roll Up Magazine
Journy Magazine
Let It Go